(from February 12,
2014)
We are three hours into our car journey through the narrow,
winding hills of the Western Ghats, on our way from Wayanad to Coorg, when a
bathroom stop becomes necessary. While we are both fully prepared to do as the
locals, and drop trou on the side of the road, our driver insists on finding us
a “proper” hole. He swings a turn off the main drag and into a sleepy village,
before abruptly “parking” the car in the middle of the “road.” He ushers us to
the door of a random home where we are welcomed by a bewildered, elderly woman.
After a brief conversation in Kannada with the driver, the woman grabs Tiffany
by the hand and leads her to the washroom in the back of her living space. Arming
herself with a pail, the woman insists on cleaning the area surrounding the
hole, before allowing Tiffany admittance. Gracious for the unwarranted hospitality,
Tiffany offers an awkwardly mispronounced “dhan’yavada” in appreciation.
Meanwhile, the driver directs Taylor to the coffee
plantation on the side of the road, apparently determining that an “improper
hole” is more suitable for him. If only the driver knew how much more
comfortable Tiffany is with such facilities.
When we finally arrive to the remote organic farm-stay in
the hills, we are greeted with a cup of civet coffee. Renowned for its
exclusiveness, the coffee is produced by gathering, washing, and roasting
coffee berries, after they have made it through the digestive track of the
civet. Mmmmmm. These are some serious dingle berries!
Fueled up, we head out for an evening exploration in the Ghats.
We spend the night in a cottage nestled among lush gardens
and aromatic plantations.
An early morning hike to see the sunrise, before another
bout of pre-digested bean juice. We just cannot get enough.
Not enough civet coffee!
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